Can
an embroidered fabric look alike from both the sides? Ya, Chamba Rumal! It is a
distinctive style of embroidery, in which the embroidered motif appears the
same from right as well as from the wrong side. Surprisingly, there is no
difference between the wrong and right side! It’s the identical on both the faces
of fabric!! That is the reason why a rumal (handkerchief) can cost thousands of
rupees.
It
is famous for transforming the art of Pahari and Kangra paintings of Himachal
Pradesh into the intricate embroidery patterns. It is an imitation of paintings
of scenes from Ramayana, Mahabharata and other scriptures. The delicate and
detailed designs are mesmerising which depicts Krishna Leela and circular Gopis
dance with floral motifs on its borders. The wedding scenes and hunting scenes
were embroidered. Animals like tigers, boars, horse and rams and birds like
peacocks, parrots, swans and ducks were also beautifully embroidered in bright
colour scheme. Unusually tree motifs of willow and cypress trees were also
embroidered in magnificent colours. A rare design of Chapad game which
was played in between Yudhistra and Duryodhan in Mahabharata was depicted in
it. It was used to be given as a gift to daughters at the time of their
marriage.
It
used to be embroidered on white tussar or malmal, cotton cloth.
Multicoloured threads like crimson, green, yellow and blue colour threads of
pat, untwisted silk were used. Dohara tanka or Double satin stitch was
mostly used but sometimes stem stitch was also used to embroider square piece
of fabric and rarely rectangular ones. It was used to embellish cushion covers,
pillow covers, wall hangings, caps, hand fans etc.
This
art is dying a slow death and the revival of this art is the need of the hour!